(And at the age they are, I would imagine you would have to have a liberal amount of penetrating oil on them!) I can't remember if heat is involved, but I did see a reference to someone else having this done to a dropped speedster axle. I think when dad did the '12 axle for mom's roadster, he had to have them pressed out and pressed back in.
#REPLACING KING PINS MANUAL#
Two things I'd like to know from T owners who've done this job is:ġ)how do you get the old bushings out? (trying to bang then out with a rod doesn't work with mine.bushings in too tight and the rod slips off).Ģ) I see that my kingpin bolts are slightly too big to fit into the new bushings.how does the backyard mechanic deal with that? There is some mention of a tool in the Ford service manual but can't find it in Lang's catalog.īy Susanne Rohner (Baybridgesue) on Wednesday, Febru07:10 pm: It seems that no one out there replaces their kingpin bushes for all the non existant information there is on the subject.Īnyway, I'm replacing mine to get my car registered.here in Australia you can have the rest of your car falling apart but if there's a micrometre of play in the steering it won't pass the inspection. It's been a while but this thread is timely as I'm getting ready to do a set this month.Model T Ford Forum: Kingpin bushing replacement Kingpin bushing replacementīy John H (26tourer) on Wednesday, Febru06:00 pm: If all looks good then reinstall and fully tighten. Because of this I like to lightly tighten the pin, then remove and make sure no burrs have been created on the mating surfaces. Sometimes the king pin doesn't rotate to "self align" with the pin. The only tricky part is to make sure the cotter goes in flat against the cutout in the king pin. Let the thrust washer on the bottom take all the load. If shims are necessary, place them on top. Replace the thrust washer and set vertical end float.To quote the Haynes manuals, "installation is the reverse of disassembly".Having an extra bushing or two on hand isn't a bad idea. It's easy to ream too far, as a tiny cut can make a big difference. A piloted reamer is a good idea, to ensure everything is straight. I never assume a 3/4" reamer will be perfect, but prefer to use an adjustable reamer so I can creep up on it. Press the new bushes in and ream to fit.With a press (or socket and vise), press the old bushes out of the spindle.Drive the king pin out, keeping a hand on the spindle so it doesn't fall and damage the threads.This sometimes destroys the pin, so it's good to have a extra set on hand. Remove the nut from the cotter pin and drive the pin out.You should be able to remove the brake without disturbing the hose and carefully set it aside. Remove the brake assembly and steering arm (steering arm shares lower backing plate bolts).Remove the hub and bearings from the spindle.Many sources for the pins have the wrong heads on them but as I recall his are the correct type.įrom memory, this is the sequence to replace a king pin. I have purchased king pins and bushes from Roger Furneaux and the quality is quite nice. For one, the bushes are a straight 3/4" taper so no special reamer is required. Kingpin replacement in a TC is easier than MGB.
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